By Marco Pelusi, Marco Pelusi Hair Studio, Inc. www.marcopelusi.com
Gem asks: I have pretty fine hair that has annoying cowlicks in it. The only way, I’ve been able to straighten my hair is with a flat iron,
which eliminates all volume. Can you suggest another way to tame my
annoying cowlicks and preserve volume?
Marco: Hi there! Yes that’s an issue for certain – the combination of fine hair with the challenges of growth patterns (or cowlicks) can be tricky. The first item to consider is the stylist who cuts your hair. You have specific needs that must be communicated to your stylist. You literally must say to your stylist ‘I need you to respect the growth patterns of my hair while you cut it’. As a general rule, less tension should be applied by your stylist during a haircut to the areas in which you have cowlicks. If too much tension is applied, the cowlick can be exposed, and can rear its ugly head, and then you are forced to tame it all the time. I truly believe if you get a better haircut – one that respects the growth patterns and cowlicks on your head – your hair should fall more naturally and you will be able to control it much easier. Secondly, yes, a flat iron does tend to flatten the hair. But, a trick you can use when using a flat iron in the cowlick areas is not to start at the scalp area – but rather, start at least a 1/2 inch away from the scalp. It’s ok to have a little bend at the scalp area, and if you eliminate it altogether, the hair will be flat. Also, when using the flat iron in these areas, direct the flat iron straight up into the air, in a vertical direction – not down, nor to the side. Lift it up. And finally, aim to learn to utilize a metal brush when styling your hair instead of a flat iron, as you can achieve smoothness and volume simultaneously when you’re skilled with a brush. If you have no idea how to use a brush, ask your stylist to demonstrate. Also I have a marvelous, alcohol-free gel (Marco Color Control Gel with Collagen Color Guard) available at www.marcopelusi.com that will add volume to your hair before blowdrying.
Artcandy asks:I love my hair dark ( it is natural) Have read that after your over a certain age its best to lighten up. Is this true with everyone? Thanks so much!
Marco: As a colorist, yes, generally speaking, I do believe that as we get older, we shouldn’t be AS dark with our haircolor as we once were. The reason for this is: as we age, we lose pigment in our skin and our hair, so the very dark hair no longer looks as good as it once did next to our skin.
A woman in her early 30s can probably pull off the same level of darkness in her hair as she had in her 20s. But once she gets into her later 30s, and most definitely into her mid to late 40s, she needs to lighten it up a bit. I’m not suggesting for you to become blonde! I’m merely suggesting that slowly, gradually, you should aim to lighten your hair, over the years, at least by a few shades. If you have a very dark, rich brunette color, begin by adding a few caramel highlights. If you like them, gradually add more. Eventually, ask your stylist to slowly lighten your base color by a few shades, to catch with the highlights. This lightening can be natural looking, if done in harmony with the highlighting. During this transformation, and with all haircolor, make sure to use color-safe products. Check mine out at www.marcopelusi.com.
Thank-you Marco! Once again, your honest answers are very appreciated! What do you think ladies? Any tips from this you can try at home?